Thursday, July 27, 2017

Blackberry Ice Cream

Blackberry Ice Cream 

A couple weeks ago I was picking wild blackberries in upstate New York and I was inspired to make a blackberry ice cream when I got home to LA and my ice cream maker. This is the ice cream to make when you have a couple pints of really plump, super sweet blackberries bursting with flavor. Wild or farmer's market is ideal, but nice ones from the grocery store will do just as well. However, once you buy your blackberries, don't put them in the fridge or you will loose a lot of the natural sugar and a lot of flavor. Keep them out on the counter until you're ready to go. I tried to keep the sugar low and the creaminess factor high with this recipe. Last week I served it at a dinner party with a no-cook blackberry sauce. Just crush a cup of blackberries in a bowl with a potato masher, add a spoonful of sugar and the juice of half a lemon and stir to combine. It gave a nice, tart counterpoint to the rich ice cream and everyone loved it.


1 1/2 c heavy cream
1 1/2 c whole milk
1/2 c sugar
5 egg yolks
8 oz blackberries
pinch of salt

In a blender or food processor pulse berries until not quite smooth, you want to have a few chunks to bite in to.

Warm milk in saucepan and warm until hot but not scalding. While milk is heating mix sugar, egg yolks and a pinch of salt in a large metal bowl. Whisk 1-2 minutes until combined and creamy. Gradually pour the hot milk into the yolk mixture, whisking constantly and being careful not to scramble the eggs. Return mixture to the sauce pan, place over medium-low heat, and cook, stirring constantly until mixture reaches 170 F. If you don't have a thermometer, just cook the custard until it is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Do not allow to boil. Strain custard in to a clean bowl to remove any cooked egg solids. Add cream and blackberries. Refrigerate at least one hour or overnight. When ready to freeze, pour into ice cream maker and freeze according to manufacturer's instructions. Makes about 1.5 quarts.

Sunday, July 2, 2017

Strawberry Almond Clafoutis

Clafoutis (pronounced kla-foo-tee) is traditionally made with cherries, but it's also delicious with strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, peaches, pears, prunes soaked in brandy...any fruit really really. It's elegant (because it's French!) and easy; like a cross between a soufflé and a flan. You basically make a crepe batter in the blender, pour it over the fruit and bake. It will puff up a little like a soufflé and should be creamy within.

This recipe serves 2-4 and is baked in a small dish but can be doubled (only increase the fruit to 3 cups) and baked in a 9 inch cake pan or skillet to serve 6-8. If you don't like almonds, use 100% AP flour and substitute vanilla extract for the almond extract.

Strawberry Almond Clafoutis

8 oz (2 cups) hulled strawberries, sliced in half if large
1 T unsalted butter
1/2 c milk
2 eggs
1/4 c sugar
1/4 c flour
1/4 c almond flour
1/2 t almond extract
1/4 t salt

Preheat oven to 350 F. Use butter to grease a 6 inch cast iron skillet or gratin dish. Place strawberries in pan, cut side down if halved.

Put all other ingredients in blender and whizz until combined and smooth. About 15 seconds. Pour batter over strawberries. Bake 35-45 minutes or until middle is just set and clafoutis is lightly golden. Let cool slightly. Dust with powdered sugar and cut into wedges to serve. Good warm, room temp or cold.

Monday, June 26, 2017

Quick Raw Low Sugar Strawberry Jam

Did you know you can make RAW strawberry jam in no time at all with just a small amount of sugar or sweetener? I love old fashioned jam but this is great in the summer when you don't want to stand over a hot stove. It works best with sweet, small, very ripe famer's market strawberries like gaviotas.

Raw Strawberry Jam

250 g or 2 c hulled, ripe strawberries
1 T lemon juice
1-2 T sweetener of choice (honey, agave, maple syrup, white or brown sugar...)
2 T chia seeds

Place strawberries in a blender with lemon juice and sweetener of choice. Blend or pulse for chunkier texture. Taste and adjust sweetener if you want. Transfer to bowl and stir in chia seeds. Pour into a jar and let set in fridge. Makes about 10 ounces and keeps up to 2 weeks refrigerated.

Friday, June 2, 2017

Strawberry Cherry Galette

Fruit galettes are a perfect summer dessert. Easier and more forgiving than a pie, and only a little more work than a crisp or crumble. I used strawberries and cherries, but this would be good with any stone fruit as well.

1 tart crust (recipe below)
1 pint of strawberries, hulled and quartered
1 c cherries, pitted and cut in half
3 T sugar
1/2 tsp cornstarch
juice of half a lemon 1/8 tsp salt
egg wash (1 yolk and 1 T milk or water whisked together)
2 T turbinado sugar
2 T butter

Heat oven to 375 F.

Combine strawberries, cherries, sugar, cornstarch, lemon juice and salt in a bowl and stir gently to combine.

Roll out tart dough on a lightly floured piece of parchment paper until it's 1/8" thick. Transfer dough and parchment to a sheet pan. Place fruit in center of dough, leaving a 2" border. Gently fold the pastry inwards,over the fruit, pleating to hold it in (it can be messy). Brush pastry generously with egg wash. Dot butter over exposed fruit and sprinkle turbinado sugar over everything. Bake for aprox. 45-55 minutes or until crust is deep golden and fruit is bubbling. Let cool slightly before serving.

Tart Crust (Pate Brisee)

1 1/4 c all purpose flour
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbs sugar
1/2 c cold, unsalted butter, cut in to 1" chunks
2-4 tbs ice water
Put the flour, salt and sugar in a food processor and pulse a few times to mix. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse sand (about 15 seconds.) Pour two tbs of water through the opening and mix until the mixture will hold together when pinched (you may need to add the remaining water.) Remove the dough and work it into a ball. Pat it down into a disc, wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate one hour. Let sit at room temperature 30 minutes before assembling tart.

Wednesday, February 1, 2017

Banana Bread

Everyone needs a good banana bread recipe. This one is tried and true. It's healthier than many, with only a quarter cup of butter (or coconut oil) - but it does have a cup of sugar in it's not exactly health food.

Sometimes I make my banana bread plain and simple, other times I'll throw in a cup or so of some additional ingredient. I always try and save a banana to slice horizontally and place on top before baking.

Additional ingredient ideas:

-shredded coconut
-walnuts or pecans (toast them slightly before adding them to the batter for a nuttier flavor)
-quartered strawberries
-dried fruit such as apricots, blueberries, raisins, prunes, cherries....
-chocolate chips
-peanut butter chips for those who like peanut butter and banana sandwiches!
-grated zucchini or carrot
-a shot of rum
-a handfull of seeds such as flax, sunflower, pumpkin....

The loaf in the photo above was baked with 1/2 c shredded coconut and 1/2 c bran flakes added, with a little coconut sprinkled on top.

Banana Bread

3-4 very ripe bananas and one extra to slice and place on top
1 c sugar
2 eggs
1/4 c (half a stick) of unsalted butter, melted - or coconut oil, warmed to liquid state
2 tsp pure vanilla extract
1/2 tsp fine sea salt
1 1/2 c flour
1 tsp baking soda
1 cup or thereabouts of your mix in

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter or oil a loaf pan.

In a large bowl, mash the bananas with a potato masher or fork until well mashed. Some lumps are fine. Whisk in the eggs, melted butter, vanilla and salt and stir to combine well. If you are adding a wet mix in such as grated zucchini you can add it now. Add the flour and baking soda and stir until combined. At this point you can add in your dry mix in. Don't over stir.

Pour the batter in to the greased loaf pan and bake for 55-60 minutes. Time will vary slightly depending on the length and width of your pan. You want the bread to be golden brown and if you stick a tooth pick or knife in the center it shouldn't be wet when you pull it out.

Let cool for at least 15 minutes before removing. To remove, run a knife around the edges and tap the pan sideways on the counter with your hand ready to catch the bread.

Enjoy and let me know what kind of additions you like to add!

Saturday, October 8, 2016

Farro with butternut and delicata squash, hazelnuts, spicy pickled raisins and pepitas

This is great fall and winter side dish or meal in itself. The spicy pickled raisins add a nice punch but you could leave them out or add them unpickled and the finished dish will still be great.

Ingredients (serves 6)

1.5 c farro
1 butternut squash
2 delicata squash
1 T chopped sage leaves
1 shallot, peeled and roughly chopped
1-3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced
1 T chopped thyme
1 c hazelnuts
1/2 c pickled raisins
1/2 c pepitas
juice of 1-2 lemons
handful chopped parsley
olive oil

Put farro in a pot and cover with water by at least 3-4 inches. Boil for 20-40 minutes until al dente. Farro can vary a lot on the cooking time; you want it to be somewhat soft when you bite down on it but not mushy. Drain and set aside.

Peel and seed butternut squash. Cut into 1 inch cubes. Slice delicata squash lengthwise and scoop out seeds. There is no need to peel this squash. Cut into half moon slices, 1/4 inch thick. Toss both squash with the shallot, garlic, thyme, sage, a couple tablespoons of olive oil and salt and pepper. Spread on one or two oiled baking sheets so they are not too crowded. If it's two crowded, they won't brown. Bake at 400 degrees for 40-50 minutes, until golden, stirring halfway to keep squash on outside of sheets from burning.

While squash is roasting, toast hazelnuts in another pan at the same time for 5-10 minutes, until a little darker in color and they start smelling fragrant. Let cool slightly. You can rub them with a dish towel to remove the skin but this is not necessary. Roughly chop and set aside.

Once squash is baked, toss everything together in a large bowl with lemon juice, chopped parsley and more olive oil (2-4 tablespoons, depending on taste.) Season with salt and pepper. Serve warm or at room temp.

Quick and spicy pickled raisins

Ingredients (makes 2-3 times what you will need for above recipe)

1 c golden raisins
1/2 c champagne or white wine vinegar
1/2 c water
1/2 serrano chile, sliced in to 1/8 inch thick coins
1 T sugar
1 t salt

Put raisins in a mason jar, old pickle jar or two old jam jars. Say jam jars five times fast. In a small saucepan, heat vinegar, water, chiles, sugar and salt. Once it comes to a boil and the salt and sugar disolve, pour over raisins. Let cool before using. Will keep in the fridge for a few weeks. You can use the chiles too as a spicy condiment - they're great on tacos.

Friday, November 9, 2012

Fig, Pear and Frangipane Tart

Cooking and baking are about learning techniques and understanding flavor profiles. The idea of flavor profiles can be broken down into two parts: what tastes good together (for example, seafood and lemon or tomatoes and basil) and learning what's in season and therefore tastes good right now. The more you experiement in the kitchen, try new things at restaurants, visit your local farmer's market, watch your favorite cooking shows and read cooking/food blogs, the more knowledge you accumulate. The goal is to start using all this knowledge and start cooking intuitively. If you've made a stew, roasted a chicken or put together a vinaigrette a few times, you start to rely on your knowledge and depend less on recipes. If you know what's in season, you learn to adapt recipes to ingredients that will taste the best right now.

Fig season is technically over, but they are still all over markets here and perfectly ripe. (I think the warm October we experienced in Southern California has something to do with it.) Autumn pears are starting to come in as well. Pears, figs and nuts go well together. Especially in a tart. What I love about this combo is that it's both elegant and comforting. I've served this at formal parties and causal get togethers.

I wanted to make an autumn dessert using these ingredients so I adapted my summer tart recipe Berry Frangipane Tart by simply changing the fruit and baking the tart with the fruit, instead of keeping it raw. If you learn the technique in making a tart, you can adapt it to any season and any occasion.

I've made a few of these over the last couple weeks and you can see some of my different fruit arrangements (and iphone photo editing experiments.) There's no wrong way to make a tart, unless you make it upside down - and then it's just called a cobbler. The basic technique is par baking a tart shell (half baking it so the bottom doesn't get soggy when you add the almond cream) and then spreading it with a layer of frangipane and fruit and baking it together. If you're worried about rolling out the dough, just double the recipe and you have plenty of room for error and can peice together broken scraps with your fingers. I totally do this. Before the second and longer baking, I usually sprinkle the top with raw or turbinado sugar to give it a golden color and a little crunch. The frangipan firms up around the fruit creating a custardy bed holding everything together.

Other seasonal items that would be great in a tart right now are apples, persimmon, nuts, chocolate, pumpkins, squash, dates, even grapes. I made a delicious grape tart recently, unfortunately I forgot to take photos. I just picked a bunch of big seedless red grapes of the stem, washed and dried them, and piled them on the frangipane cream, baking everything for about 45 minutes. Served with a glass of port and Stilton and you have another winning food pairing. All these tarts will vary on baking time. After 30 minutes, check periodically. You want the fruit tender, and starting to brown, but you don't want the crust to burn. It's not complicated - trust your instinct.

I served the tart in the first photo with vanilla ice cream, a brush of dark chocolate sauce and a few drops of reduced balsamic vinegar, another great pairing with figs and pears....

Before the second baking...

Getting ready to plate for a dinner party...